Cozumel

www.cozumelmycozumel.com

Dzul-Ha is a good place to snorkel from shore -- just south of the presidente intercontintental hotel. also on the other side of the hotel too.

Punta Molas Faro Nautical Site, Cozumel

The lighthouse, at Cozumel's northernmost point, is an excellent destination for exploring the island's wild side. The jagged shoreline and open sea offer magnificent views, making it well worth the cost of a guided tour. Even tour Jeeps and dune buggies may not be able to make it all the way to the lighthouse if storms have completely destroyed the road, but the scenery is still awesome. Most tours include stops at Maya sites and plenty of time for snorkeling at Hanan Reef about a 10-minute swim off the coast.
When booking a tour, ask about the size of the group. Some companies work with the cruise ships and lead large groups on limited schedules. If you're taking young children along you may want to think twice about booking a Jeep tour, as the bumps along the road could bounce the kids right out of the vehicle.

The enthusiastic guides at Aventuras Naturales (PHONE: 987/872-1628; 858/366-4632 in the U.S.; http://www.aventurasnaturalascozumel.com/) offer five-hour Jungle Jeep tours that include a stop at Castillo Real to explore the ruins, snorkeling, and then lunch on a beach strewn with seashells. Prices start at $85 per person. For $89, Dune Buggy Tours (PHONE: 987/872-0788) will take you on a wild buggy ride (you can drive yourself if you like), with stops at the ruins and reef and a lunch on the beach.

playa palancar
cozumel sailing and fury catamarans offer snorkeling tours
cozumelbikes.com

COZUMEL -- Playa del Carmen. Barcos México (tel. 987/872-1508 or 987/872-1588) and Ultramar (tel. 987/869-2775) offer departures almost every hour on the hour between 5am and midnight. The trip takes 30 to 45 minutes, depending on conditions, and costs $9 one-way. The boats are air-conditioned. In Playa del Carmen, the ferry dock is 1 1/2 blocks from the main square. In Cozumel, the ferries use Muelle Fiscal, the town pier, a block from the main square. Luggage storage at the Cozumel dock costs $2 per day.

The car ferry that used to operate from Puerto Morelos now uses the Calica pier just south of Playa del Carmen. The fare for a standard car is $80. Marítima Chancanaab (tel. 987/872-0916) has four departures daily from Calica at 7am, 1pm, 5pm, and 9pm. Arrive one hour before departure. The schedule is subject to change, so double-check it. The ferry docks in Cozumel at the Muelle Internacional (the International Pier, which is south of town near La Ceiba Hotel).

snorkeling trip to mayan reef: palancar reef, paraiso and chankanaab nat'l park

restaurant: chen rio, cabana del pescador

wildcatcozumel@hotmail.com). He speaks English, owns a couple of boats, and does a good 5-hour tour. He takes his time and doesn't rush through the trip. You can also try the Kuzamil Snorkeling Center, 50 Av. bis 565 Int. 1, between 5 Sur and Hidalgo, Colonia Adolfo López Mateos (tel. 987/872-4637 or 987/872-0539). A full-day snorkel trip costs $65 per person, $50 for children under 8. It includes the boat, the guide, a buffet lunch, and snorkel equipment, and it visits four reefs. Half-day trips are $40 adults, $30 children.

Chankanaab National Park: the snorkeling is best before noon. You can also swim with dolphins. Dolphin Discovery (tel. 998/849-4757 in Cancún; www.dolphindiscovery.com) has several programs for experiencing these sea creatures. You'll need to make reservations well in advance. The surest way is by e-mail (salesinternet@dolphindiscovery.com.mx) or through the website. The dolphin swim and other programs are very popular, so your best bet is to plan ahead. Still, if you're already in Cozumel, you can try by calling tel. 987/872-9702. The dolphin swim costs $125 and features close interaction with the beautiful swimmers. There's also a swim and snorkel program for $99 that gets you in the water with them but offers less interaction.

Dolphin Discovery also offers a program only in Cozumel where you can swim with sea lions ($59); make reservations for this. There is also a sea lion show, which doesn't require reservations. The show includes some scarlet macaws, which, like the sea lions, were rescued from illegal captivity. It costs $5 per adult, $3.50 per child. Tickets are available through any travel agency in town (and remember that you also have to pay for admission to the park).

Surrounding the land-locked pool is a botanical garden with shady paths and 351 species of tropical and subtropical plants from 22 countries, as well as 451 species from Cozumel. Several Maya structures have been re-created within the gardens to give visitors an idea of Maya life in a jungle setting. There's a small natural history museum as well. Admission to the park costs $10; it's open daily from 8am to 5pm. The park is south of town, just past the Fiesta Americana Hotel. Taxis run constantly between the park, the hotels, and town ($9 from town for up to four people).

Punta Sur Ecological Reserve (admission $10) is a large area that encompasses the southern tip of the island, including the Columbia Lagoon. The only practical way of going there is to rent a car or scooter; there is no taxi stand, and, usually, few people. This is an ecological reserve, not a park, so don't expect much infrastructure. The reserve has an information center, several observation towers, and a snack bar. In addition, there are four boat rides per day around the Colombia Lagoon, where guides point out things of interest about the habitat (bring bug spray). Punta Sur has some interesting snorkeling (bring your own gear), and lovely beaches kept as natural as possible. Regular hours are from 9am to 5pm. A special program (tel. 987/872-2940 for info) allows visitors to observe turtle nests in season, and you can participate as a volunteer in the evenings during the nesting season.

La Choza: Local residents consider this one of the best Mexican restaurants in town. Platters of poblano chiles stuffed with shrimp, arrachera (skirt steak), and pollo en relleno negro (chicken in a sauce of blackened chiles) are among the specialties. The table sauces and guacamole are great, and the daily specials can be good, too. This is an open-air restaurant with well-spaced tables under a tall thatched roof. Avenida Rafael Melgar 27, San Miguel.

Comida COsera COnita: The owners have made the living room of their home into a comfortable dining room, complete with filled bookshelves and classical music playing in the background. Whole fried fish, fish filet, and fried chicken are on the regular menu. Daily specials give you a chance to taste authentic regional food, including pollo a la naranja (chicken in bitter-orange sauce), chicken mole (in a vinegar-based sauce), pollo en escabeche (chicken stewed in a lightly pickled sauce), and pork chops with achiote seasoning.