Xel-ha

The ecopark at Xel-Ha (tel. 998/884-9422; www.xelha.com.mx, 13km (8 miles) south of Akumal, attracts throngs of snorkelers and divers with its warm waters and brilliant fish. The beautiful, calm cove is a perfect place to bring kids for their first snorkeling experience.

Xel-ha (shell-hah) also offers dolphin swims and has food and beverage service, changing rooms, showers, and other facilities.

Just south of the Xel-Ha turnoff on the west side of Highway 307, don't miss the ruins of ancient Xel-Ha. You'll likely be the only one there as you walk over limestone rocks and through the tangle of trees, vines, and palms. There is a huge, deep, dark cenote to one side, a temple palace with tumbled-down columns, stone statues of jaguars, and a conserved temple group. A covered palapa on one pyramid guards a partially preserved mural. Admission is $3.50.

Xel-Ha is close to Tulum and makes a good place for a dip when you've finished climbing those Maya ruins. You can even make the 13km (8-mile) hop north from Tulum to Xel-Ha by public bus. When you get off at the junction for Tulum, ask the restaurant owner when the next buses come by; otherwise, you may have to wait as long as 2 hours on the highway

The centerpiece of Xel-Ha (shell-hah) is a large, beautiful lagoon where freshwater and saltwater meet. You can swim, float, and snorkel in beautifully clear water surrounded by jungle. A small train takes guests upriver to a drop-off point. There, you can store all your clothes and gear in a locked sack that is taken down to the locker rooms in the main part of the building. The water moves calmly toward the sea, and you can float along with it. Snorkeling here offers a higher comfort level than the open sea -- there are no waves and currents to pull you about, but there are a lot of fish of several species, including rays.

Inside the park, you can rent snorkeling equipment and an underwater camera. Platforms allow nonsnorkelers to view the fish. Another way to view fish is to use the park's "snuba" gear -- a contraption that allows you to breathe air through 6m (20-ft.) tubes connected to scuba tanks floating on the surface. It frees you of the cumbersome tank while allowing you to stay down without having to hold your breath. Rental costs $42 for approximately an hour. Like snuba but more involved is "sea-trek," a device consisting of an elaborate plastic helmet with air hoses. It allows you to walk around on the bottom breathing normally and perhaps participate in feeding the park's stingrays.

Another attraction is swimming with dolphins. A 1-hour swim costs $115; a 15-minute program costs $40. Make reservations (tel. 998/887-6840) at least 24 hours in advance for one of the four daily sessions.

Other attractions include a plant nursery, an apiary for the local, stingless Maya bees, and a lovely path through the tropical forest bordering the lagoon.

Xel-Ha is open daily from 8:30am to 5pm. Parking is free. For the basic package, adult admission is $36 on weekdays, $28 on weekends; admission for children ages 5 to 11 is $18 on weekdays, $13 on weekends; children under 5 enter free. Admission includes use of inner tubes, life vest, and shuttle train to the river, and the use of changing rooms and showers. An all-inclusive option includes snorkeling equipment rental, locker rental, towels, food, and beverages. Adults can visit all week long for $67, and children visit for $33. The park has five restaurants, two ice cream shops, and a store. It accepts American Express, MasterCard, and Visa, and has an ATM.
Signs clearly mark the turnoff to Xel-Ha. Xel-Ha is close to the ruins of Tulum. A popular day tour from Cancún or Playa combines the two. If you're traveling on your own, the best time to enjoy Xel-Ha without the crowds is during the weekend from 9am to 2 pm.