Isla Holbox

Isla Holbox
A remote island off the farthest eastern point of the Yucatán Peninsula, Holbox (pronounced "hohl-bosh") is a half-deserted fishing village, a modest wildlife refuge, and a desert-island getaway for travelers seeking solitude. From Valladolid, take Highway 180 east for about 90km (60 miles) toward Cancún; turn north after Nuevo Xcan at the tiny crossroads of El Ideal. Drive nearly 100km (60 miles) north on a poorly maintained state highway to the tiny port of Chiquilá, where you can park your car in a secure parking lot; walk 180m (600 ft.) to the pier, and haggle over the $20 boat ride 3km (2 miles) to the island. There is a ferry, but it runs only five times per day.

In the late 1840s, Holbox was a refuge for European landowners fleeing Indian mobs during the Caste Wars. Nowadays the village of Holbox is empty when the fishing fleet is out, and only half populated in the best of times. On the beach just beyond the village are a few comfortable palapa hotels, which charge $80 to $130 per night and have all the amenities, including a restaurant and a swimming pool. Villas Delfines (tel. 998/884-8606 or 998/874-4014; fax 998/884-6342) is one; Villas Flamingos (tel. 800/538-6802 in the U.S. and Canada) is another. Both of these places offer peace and quiet on a broad, sandy beach. Besides swimming in the Gulf waters, which are a dull green instead of the blue of the Caribbean, you can visit the nearby bird sanctuary that's on the island. Several of the town's residents will be happy to take you on a tour, but this place is more for people who simply want to relax by the seashore.

HOLBOX ADVENTURE
Visit the enchanting island Holbox, which is part of the Yum Balam Biosphere Reserve and experience the great photo opportunities on Little Bird Island, where important aquatic birds nest: Pink Flamingos, Egrets, Herons, Cormorants, White and Brown Pelicans, Terns, etc. Frequently groups of dolphins are seen in this area. We will have a delicious, relaxing lunch and time to stroll through the small village. The eco-tour begins at 8:00 AM with pick up at your hotel, returning approximately at 7:00 PM.
Groups only: Minimum of 6 personsPrice: 95.00 USD/person. Children under 8 pay 70%.

Rio Lagartos Nature Reserve

Rio Lagartos Nature Reserve

Some 80km (50 miles) north of Valladolid (40km/25 miles north of Tizimín) on Highway 295 is Río Lagartos, a 50,000-hectare (120,000-acre) refuge established in 1979 to protect the largest nesting population of flamingos in North America. The nesting area is off limits, but you can see plenty of flamingos as well as many other species of fowl and take an enjoyable boat ride around the estuary here.

To get to Río Lagartos, you pass through Tizimín, which is about 30 minutes away. The best place to stay there is Hotel 49, Calle 49 373-A (tel. 986/863-2136), by the main square. There is not much to do in Tizimín unless you are there during the first 2 weeks of January, when it holds the largest fair in the Yucatán. The prime fiesta day is January 6.

Seeing the Rio Lagartos Refuge -- Río Lagartos is a small fishing village of around 3,000 people who make their living from the sea and from the occasional tourist who shows up to see the flamingos. Colorfully painted houses face the malecón (the oceanfront street), and brightly painted boats dock here and there.

When you drive into town keep going straight until you get to the shore. Look for where Calle 10 intersects with the malecón; it's near a modern church. There, in a little kiosk, you'll find the best-trained guides, members of a fishermen's co-op called Sindicato Unico de Lancheros. There you can make arrangements for a 2-hour tour, which will cost $45 to $50 for two to three people. The best time to go is in the early morning, so it's best to overnight here at one of the cheap hotels along the malecón. I looked at a few and liked Posada Lucy (no phone; $23 for two).
I had a very pleasant ride the next morning, and saw several species of ducks, hawks, cranes, cormorants, and osprey, and, of course, lots of flamingos. The guide also wanted to show me how easy it was to float in some evaporation pools used by the local salt producer at Las Coloradas (a good source of employment for the locals until it was mechanized) and a place where fresh water bubbles out from below the saltwater estuary.

Ek Balam

Ek Balam: Dark Jaguar
About 18km (11 miles) north of Valladolid, off the highway to Río Lagartos, are the spectacular ruins of Ek Balam, which, owing to a certain ambiguity in Mayan, means either "dark jaguar" or "star jaguar." Relatively unvisited by tourists, the Ek Balam ruins are about to hit it big. On my last trip a brand new road was built from Highway 295 straight to the ruins. This can mean only one thing: tour buses. See these ruins as soon as possible.

In the last few years a team of archeologists have been doing extensive excavation and renovation. What they have found has the Mayanist world of scholars all aquiver. Take Calle 40 north out of Valladolid to Highway 295; go 20km (12 miles) to a large marked turnoff. Ek Balam is 13km (8 miles) from the highway; the entrance fee is $3, plus $4 for each video camera. The site is open daily from 8am to 5pm.

Built between 100 B.C. and A.D. 1200, the smaller buildings are architecturally unique -- especially the large, perfectly restored Caracol. Flanked by two smaller pyramids, the imposing central pyramid is about 160m (520 ft.) long and 60m (200 ft.) wide. At more than 30m (100 ft.) high, it is easily taller than the highest pyramids in Chichén Itzá and Uxmal. On the left side of the main stairway, archaeologists have uncovered a large ceremonial doorway of perfectly preserved stucco work. It is an astonishingly elaborate representation of the gaping mouth of the underworld god. Around it are several beautifully detailed human figures. Excavation inside revealed a long chamber filled with Mayan hieroglyphic writing. From the style, it appears that the scribes probably came from Guatemala. So far this chamber is closed to the public. From this script, an epigrapher, Alfonso Lacadena, has found the name of one of the principal kings of the city -- Ukit Kan Le'k. He is still working on deciphering the full meaning of the text. If you climb to the top of the pyramid, in the middle distance you can see untouched ruins looming to the north. To the southeast, you can spot the tallest structures at Cobá, 50km (30 miles) away.
Also plainly visible are the raised causeways of the Maya -- the sacbé appear as raised lines in the forest vegetation. More than any of the better-known sites, Ek Balam inspires a sense of mystery and awe at the scale of Maya civilization and the utter ruin to which it came.

Cenotes Dzitnup & Sammula

Cenotes Dzitnup & Sammula
The Cenote Dzitnup (also known as Cenote Xkekén), 4km (2 1/2 miles) west of Valladolid off Highway 180, is worth a side trip, especially if you have time for a dip. You can take the bike trail there. Antonio Aguilar, who owns a sporting goods store at Calle 41 no. 225, between calles 48 and 50, rents bikes. Once you get there, you descend a short flight of rather perilous stone steps, and at the bottom, inside a beautiful cavern, is a natural pool of water so clear and blue that it seems plucked from a dream. If you decide to swim, be sure that you don't have creams or other chemicals on your skin -- they damage the habitat of the small fish and other organisms living there. Also, no alcohol, food, or smoking is allowed in the cavern. Admission is $2. The cenote is open daily from 7am to 7pm. About 90m (300 ft.) down the road on the opposite side is another recently discovered cenote, Sammulá, where you can also swim. Admission is $2.

Xpu Ha

Xpu Ha: white beach on a small bay. The lovely lagoon and cenote on the Northern end of Xpu Ha Beach was bought by a developer and turned into an all inclusive hotel. The Southern end is blocked by Robinson Club, but feel free to walk on the Robinson Club beach.

The BEST beach in the Riviera Maya

Xpu Ha beach is top optional and people do yoga on the beach at sunset and sunrise.

IMAX star Dive Ace does private scuba diving instruction on Xpu Ha beach. Contact him at info@diveace.com

When driving south from Playa del Carmen, you will pass the Mayan arch entrance of the Xpu Ha Palace all inclusive hotel.

X-1: private road to a super luxury private villa. Don't try to go down there to park.

X-1.5 leads down to a new hotel and restaurant. Al Cielo Hotel has 4 romantic and stylish rooms. Think net draped beds with sunrise and sunset views. The beachfront palapas are draped in gauzy fabric. Al Cielo Restaurant is open to the beach. Much more posh than the usual Riviera Maya restaurant, Al Cielo has a certain flair which we haven't ever seen around here. Mussels are flown in fresh on the weekends, the seafood is fresh, and the paella is well worth the wait. Plan to spend the evening here and fully enjoy yourself.

X-3: closed because they are building a new hotel. Construction has been stopped for over a year so it does not interfere with the beach.

X-4's small orange hotel, Villas del Caribe Xpu Ha is a great place to stay and relax on the beach. The hotel rooms are affordable and all of them have ocean views. There is also a massage therapist who takes appointments through the hotel office.

Don't be fooled by the plastic tables, Cafe del Mar Restaurant and Bar is well known for excellent vegetarian and seafood dishes. Try the green gazpacho and the ceviche. Also the salad is wonderful and inventive. Cafe del Mar was rated a top 10 Restaurant in Mexico by Andrew Harper's famous Hideaway Report.

An ideal plan: come sun on the Villas del Caribe lounge chairs while you drink ice cold Coronas and Margaritas. Then have lunch at Cafe del Mar. Then go snorkeling and take a nap in the shade. Finally, finish with an early dinner at Cafe del Mar and watch the sun set from there. The menu and quality will surprise you. (They also serve tasty breakfasts with fresh juice.)

Sian Kaan Biosphere Reserve

A few miles south of Tulum ruins. 1.3 million acres set aside in 1986 to preserve tropical forests, savannas, mangroves, coastal and marine habitats, and 70 miles of coastal reefs. The area is home to jaguars, pumas, ocelots, margays, jaguarundis, spider and howler monkeys, tapirs, white-lipped and collared peccaries, manatees, brocket and white-tailed deer, crocodiles, and green, loggerhead, hawksbill, and leatherback sea turtles. It also protects 366 species of birds -- you might catch a glimpse of an ocellated turkey, a great curassow, a brilliantly colored parrot, a toucan or trogon, a white ibis, a roseate spoonbill, a jabiru (or wood stork), a flamingo, or one of 15 species of herons, egrets, and bitterns.

The park has three parts: a "core zone" restricted to research; a "buffer zone," to which visitors and families already living there have restricted use; and a "cooperation zone," which is outside the reserve but vital to its preservation. Driving south from Tulum on Highway 307, everything on the left side of the highway is part of the reserve. Most tours enter the biopreserve on this side at the community of Muyil where there are canals built by the Maya that lead to a lagoon. At least 22 archaeological sites have been charted within Sian Ka'an.

Visitors can arrange day trips in Tulum at Sian Ka'an Tours (tel. 984/871-2363; siankaan_tours@hotmail.com), on the east side of the road, .3km (less than 1/4 mile) south of the highway intersection, next to Los Tucanes restaurant.

Coba

Built between two lakes during the Classic Period (600-900 A.D.) it was at one time a very large city spread over 80 square kilometers. The main pyramid, Nohoch Mul meaning 'large hill', is 42 meters tall (138 feet) and is the highest in the Yucatan peninsula. Another pyramid known as Templo de la Iglesia, 'Temple of the Church', is second in height at Cobá and from its summit there is a spectacular view of lake Macanxoc.

The Maya prospered here between 400 to 1100 A.D. In its heyday nearly 50,000 people lived within Cobá confines. Besides the structures there are mysterious ancient roads through the jungle called Sacbes which radiate out from Cobá. Smaller trails lead to other aspects of the ruins. These ruins were opened to the public in 1973 but only a few of Cobá estimated 6,000 structures are restored or uncovered. Most are still buried under centuries of thick jungle growth. The top of the gigantic Temple of the Church affords a fantastic view of Lake Macanxoc to the east and Lake Cobá to the southwest. You'll also see many stele, glyphs, and sculptures showing weathered carvings of Gods, actors and complex inscriptions.

The restored structures are in 5 groups connected by shady, well groomed trails under the jungle canopy. You may see or hear monkeys and an incredible variety of jungle birds. Walking can be hot and the air humid so wear comfortable shoes and carry some water if you really want to see all the major areas. The Nohoch Mul Group, Conjunto Pinturas and Macanxoc Group can all be seen in about 2.5 hours at a leisurely pace.

There are a large number of stele at the Coba site with thatched roofs (recent additions) above them - presumably to protect them. The stele are fairly large stone slabs which have drawings and glyphs. One stele is dated November 30, 780 A.D. in Mayan glyphs.

Sacbes Cobá was the hub of a system of roads called sacbes, constructed by the Maya for commerce and general travel by foot. There were about 50 sacbes between 10 and 30ft wide; one was about 100km long. They were built of limestone and it is estimated that the manpower and effort required for their construction exceeded that for the stone buildings and temples. It is interesting that the Maya did not use the wheel to aid transport even though they were familiar with it. Transportation of goods along the sacbes was done by people carrying parcels. Some of the sacbes are long enough to have been seen by astronauts on a shuttle mission.

Getting there: From Tulum at the traffic light insection of the Coba road and highway 307, travel west (away from the beach) and go about 30 minutes to the ruins (follow the signs). There are two interesting towns along the way selling arts and crafts, and a few rustic restaurants on the road as well. Watch the road for potholes, there are also speed bumps at at the villages! Food and lodging can be found near the ruins.

Tulum Ruins

The access fee is $35 pesos from 07:00 to 18:00 hrs . The ruins are free on Sunday. It is necessary to park the your car at the shopping center's parking lot (an extra $30 peso fee). The 1 km journey between the parking lot and the site's entrance can be made by walking or in a small train which access fee is +/-$10 pesos.

There is easy access via the 180 Federal Highway from Cancun to Tulum. It's the final southern stop on the Riviera Maya. The site has a parking lot, refreshments and restrooms located at the shopping center. Tickets are sold at the entrance to the ruins. There is a registered guides association offering services at the ruins site

8 miles south of Xel-Ha, a Maya fortress-city overlooking the Caribbean. open daily 7am to 5pm. It's always best to go early, before the crowds start showing up around 9:30am. The entrance to the ruins is about a 5-minute walk from the archaeological site. There are artisans' stands, a bookstore, a museum, a restaurant, several large bathrooms, and a ticket booth. Admission fee to the ruins is $4. If you want to ride the shuttle from the visitor center to the ruins, it's another $1.50. Parking is $3. Licensed guides have a stand next to the path to the ruins and charge $20 for a 45-minute tour in English, French, or Spanish for up to four persons. In some ways, they are like performers and will tailor their presentation to the responses they receive from you. Some will try to draw connections between the Maya and Western theology. But they will point out architectural details that you might otherwise miss.

Much of what we know of Tulum at the time of the Spanish Conquest comes from the writings of Diego de Landa, third bishop of the Yucatán. He wrote that Tulum was a small city inhabited by about 600 people who lived in platform dwellings along a street and who supervised the trade traffic from Honduras to the Yucatán. Though it was a walled city, most of the inhabitants probably lived outside the walls, leaving the interior for the residences of governors and priests and ceremonial structures. Tulum survived about 70 years after the Conquest, when it was finally abandoned. Because of the great number of visitors this site receives, it is no longer possible to climb all of the ruins.

In Maya, Tulum means "Wall", and the city was christened thus because it is a walled city; one of the very few the ancients ever built. Research suggests it was formerly called Zama or "to dawn" in its day, which is appropriate given the location. It seems "Tulum" is the name given the site following a visit by the explorers Stephens and Catherwood in 1841, just before the beginning of the Caste War in 1847, long after the city was abandon and fell to ruins. They ordered trees cleared and Catherwood made illustrations of temples, later to be published in their famous book "Incidents of Travel in Yucatan". Juan José Gálvez is actually credited with Tulum's rediscovery in 1840. more on Tulum from Athena Review

The earliest date lifted from the site is A.D. 564 (the inscription on a stele) This places Tulum within the Classic period, though we know that its heyday was much later (1200 - 1521 A.D.) during the Late Post-classic period. Tulum was a major link in the Maya's extensive trade network. Both maritime and land routes converged here. Artifacts found in or near the site testify to contacts that ranged from Central Mexico to Central America and every place in between: copper rattles and rings from the Mexican highlands; flint and ceramics from all over the Yucatán; jade and obsidian from Guatemala and more. The first Europeans to see Tulum were probably Juan de Grijalva and his men as they sailed reconnaissance along the Eastern coast of Yucatán; in 1518. The Spaniards later returned to conquer the Peninsula unwittingly bringing Old World diseases which decimated the native population. And so Tulum, like so many cities before it, was abandoned to the elements.

When visitors arrive at Tulum's ancient pre-hispanic site they are able to see the buildings that in its time were the city's main center (ceremonial and political), monumentally encircled by the Mayan world's best known wall. Around this wall, in an area that at the present time can't be visited, there were a vast number of wooden and palm houses. Nowadays virtually no evidence of these houses exists.

By A.D. 900, the end of the Classic period, Maya civilization had begun its decline, and the large cities to the south were abandoned. Tulum is one of the small city-states that rose to fill the void. It came to prominence in the 13th century as a seaport, controlling maritime commerce along this section of the coast, and remained inhabited well after the arrival of the Spanish. The primary god here was the diving god, depicted on several buildings as an upside-down figure above doorways. Seen at the Palace at Sayil and Cobá, this curious, almost comical figure is also known as the bee god.

The first significant structure is the two-story Templo de los Frescos, to the left of the entryway. The temple's vault roof and corbel arch are examples of classic Maya architecture. Faint traces of blue-green frescoes outlined in black on the inner and outer walls refer to ancient Maya beliefs (the clearest frescoes are hidden from sight now that you can't walk into the temple). Reminiscent of the Mixtec style, the frescoes depict the three worlds of the Maya and their major deities and are decorated with stellar and serpentine patterns, rosettes, and ears of maize and other offerings to the gods. One scene portrays the rain god seated on a four-legged animal -- probably a reference to the Spaniards on their horses.

The Temple of the Initial Series façade bears several stucco figures and the earliest date found at Tulum came from a stele in the inner sanctum. Also important are the Temple of the Frescos which is filled with murals, now mostly erased by time and the elements. The temple shows traces of several building styles. The House of the Columns is more complex than most structures at the site and worth examining. It's a palace-like structure with four rooms whose principal entrance faces South. Six columns support the roof of the main room and there's also a roofed sanctuary.With the exception of its Eastern flank, which is open to the sea, Tulum is completely encircled by a low wall. Watchtowers rise from the 2 corners of its Western flank and within each tower is an altar. A tiny cove nestles at the foot of the cliffs, with its apron of snow white sand. This caleta was where the trading canoes would slip ashore.


The Temple of the Frescoes, directly in front of the Castillo, contains interesting 13th-century wall paintings, though entrance is no longer permitted. Distinctly Maya, they represent the rain god Chaac and Ixchel, the goddess of weaving, women, the moon, and medicine. On the cornice of this temple is a relief of the head of the rain god. If you pause a slight distance from the building, you'll see the eyes, nose, mouth, and chin. Notice the remains of the red-painted stucco -- at one time all the buildings at Tulum were painted bright red.

The most imposing building in Tulum is a large stone structure above the cliff called the Castillo (castle). Actually a temple as well as a fortress, it was once covered with stucco and painted. In front of the Castillo are several unrestored palace-like buildings partially covered with stucco. On the beach below, where the Maya once came ashore, tourists swim and sunbathe, combining a visit to the ruins with a dip in the Caribbean. The largest and most famous building, the Castillo (Castle), looms at the edge of a 40-foot limestone cliff just past the Temple of the Frescoes. Atop it, at the end of a broad stairway, is a temple with stucco ornamentation on the outside and traces of fine frescoes inside the two chambers. (The stairway has been roped off, so the top temple is inaccessible.) The front wall of the Castillo has faint carvings of the Descending God and columns depicting the plumed serpent god, Kukulcán, who was introduced to the Maya by the Toltecs.

The square at the center of the city was probably once used for rituals or ceremonies and is flanked by the so called Castillo (The Castle) to the West. The Castillo, sometimes referred to as the lighthouse, is the tallest building at Tulum and the most famous. It stands on the above mentioned bluff, commanding a view of the ocean and coast for miles in both directions. The structure underwent several stages of building and the lintels of its upper rooms are carved with the plumed serpent motif. The rooms themselves are vaulted in classic Mayan style.


Located just to the North of El Castillo, the Kukulcán Group, is formed by several minor structures. Being the most outstanding the Templo del Dios del Viento (Temple of the God of the Wind) is named after its round base. Traditionally related to Kukulcán is the God of the Wind Ehécatl from Central Mexico.

To the left of the Castillo is the Templo del Dios Descendente -- so called for the carving of a winged god plummeting to earth over the doorway. Temple of the Descending God This is another interesting structure. On the façade is a figure sculpted head down, and the walls inside show traces of the original pigments applied by the Maya. The descending figure is thought to represent a deity and Tulum appears to have been the center of his cult.



The tiny cove to the left of the Castillo and Temple of the Descending God is a good spot for a cooling swim, but there are no changing rooms. A few small altars sit atop a hill at the north side of the cove and have a good view of the Castillo and the sea. On the highway about 4 km (2½ mi) south of the ruins is the present-day village of Tulum. As Tulum's importance as a commercial center increases, markets, restaurants, shops, services, and auto-repair shops continue to spring up along the road. Growth hasn't been kind to the pueblo, however: it's rather unsightly, with a wide four-lane highway running down the middle. Despite this blight, it has a few good restaurants.

Finally, it is appropriate to underline the importance of the beach area, where it is certain that the Mayan ships, dedicated to trade around the peninsula, would have docked. At the present time it is the most visited area of the archaeological site.

Chichen Itza

This can be combined with Cenote Dzitnup

http://www.mayaland.com/tours.htm

179km (112 miles) W of Cancún; 120km (75 miles) E of Mérida

Walking among these stone platforms, pyramids, and ball courts gives you an appreciation for this ancient civilization that books cannot convey. The city is built on a scale that evokes a sense of wonder: To fill the plazas during one of the mass rituals that occurred here a millennium ago would have required an enormous number of celebrants. Even today, with the mass flow of tourists through these plazas, the ruins feel empty.

When visiting this old city, remember that much of what is said about the Maya (especially by tour guides, who speak in tones of utter certainty) is merely educated guessing -- or just plain guessing. Itzáes established this post-Classic Maya city perhaps sometime during the 9th century A.D. Linda Schele and David Freidel, in A Forest of Kings (Morrow, 1990), have cast doubt on the legend of its founding. It says that the Toltec, led by Kukulkán (Quetzalcoatl), came here from the Toltec capital of Tula, in north-central Mexico. Along with Putún Maya coastal traders, they built a magnificent metropolis that combined the Maya Puuc style with Toltec motifs (the feathered serpent, warriors, eagles, and jaguars). Not so, say Schele and Freidel. According to them, readings of Chichén's bas-reliefs and hieroglyphs fail to support that legend and, instead, show that Chichén Itzá was a continuous Maya site influenced by association with the Toltec but not by an invasion. Not all scholars embrace this thinking, so the idea of a Toltec invasion still holds sway.

The site occupies 6.5 sq. km (4 sq. miles), and it takes most of a day to see all the ruins, which are open daily from 8am to 5pm. Service areas are open from 8am to 10pm. Admission is $10, free for children under age 12. A video camera permit costs $4. Parking is extra. You can use your ticket to reenter on the same day, but you'll have to pay again for an additional day. The cost of admission includes the sound-and-light show, which is worth seeing. The show, held at 7 or 8pm depending on the season, is in Spanish, but headsets are available for rent ($4.50) in several languages.

The large, modern visitor center, at the main entrance where you pay the admission charge, is beside the parking lot and consists of a museum, an auditorium, a restaurant, a bookstore, and bathrooms. You can see the site on your own or with a licensed guide who speaks English or Spanish. Guides usually wait at the entrance and charge around $40 for one to six people. Although the guides frown on it, there's nothing wrong with approaching a group of people who speak the same language and asking if they want to share a guide. Be wary of the history-spouting guides -- some of their information is just plain out-of-date -- but the architectural details they point out are enlightening. Chichén Itzá has two parts: the northern (new) zone, which shows distinct Toltec influence, and the southern (old) zone, with mostly Puuc architecture.

El Castillo -- As you enter from the tourist center, the magnificent 25m (75-ft.) El Castillo pyramid (also called the Pyramid of Kukulkán) will be straight ahead across a large open area. It was built with the Maya calendar in mind. The four stairways leading up to the central platform each have 91 steps, making a total of 364, which when you add the central platform equals the 365 days of the solar year. On either side of each stairway are nine terraces, which makes 18 on each face of the pyramid, equaling the number of months in the Maya solar calendar. On the facing of these terraces are 52 panels (we don't know how they were decorated), which represent the 52-year cycle when both the solar and religious calendars would become realigned. The pyramid's alignment is such that on the spring or fall equinox (Mar 21 or Sept 21) a curious event occurs. The setting sun casts the shadow of the terraces onto the ramp of the northern stairway. A diamond pattern is formed, suggestive of the geometric designs on some snakes. Slowly it descends into the earth. The effect is more conceptual than visual, and to view it requires being with a large crowd. It's much better to see the ruins on other days when it's less crowded.

El Castillo was built over an earlier structure. A narrow stairway at the western edge of the north staircase leads inside that structure, where there is a sacrificial altar-throne -- a red jaguar encrusted with jade. The stairway is open from 11am to 3pm and is cramped, usually crowded, humid, and uncomfortable. A visit early in the day is best. Photos of the jaguar figure are not allowed.

Juego de Pelota (Main Ball Court) -- Northwest of El Castillo is Chichén's main ball court, the largest and best preserved anywhere, and only one of nine ball courts built in this city. Carved on both walls of the ball court are scenes showing Maya figures dressed as ball players and decked out in heavy protective padding. The carved scene also shows a headless player kneeling with blood shooting from his neck; another player holding the head looks on.

Players on two teams tried to knock a hard rubber ball through one of the two stone rings placed high on either wall, using only their elbows, knees, and hips (no hands). According to legend, the losing players paid for defeat with their lives. However, some experts say the victors were the only appropriate sacrifices for the gods. One can only guess what the incentive for winning might be in that case. Either way, the game must have been riveting, heightened by the wonderful acoustics of the ball court.

The North Temple -- Temples are at both ends of the ball court. The North Temple has sculptured pillars and more sculptures inside, as well as badly ruined murals. The acoustics of the ball court are so good that from the North Temple, a person speaking can be heard clearly at the opposite end, about 135m (450 ft.) away.

Temple of Jaguars -- Near the southeastern corner of the main ball court is a small temple with serpent columns and carved panels showing warriors and jaguars. Up the steps and inside the temple, a mural was found that chronicles a battle in a Maya village.

Tzompantli (Temple of the Skulls) -- To the right of the ball court is the Temple of the Skulls, an obvious borrowing from the post-Classic cities of central Mexico. Notice the rows of skulls carved into the stone platform. When a sacrificial victim's head was cut off, it was impaled on a pole and displayed in a tidy row with others. Also carved into the stone are pictures of eagles tearing hearts from human victims. The word Tzompantli is not Mayan but comes from central Mexico. Reconstruction using scattered fragments may add a level to this platform and change the look of this structure by the time you visit.

Platform of the Eagles -- Next to the Tzompantli, this small platform has reliefs showing eagles and jaguars clutching human hearts in their talons and claws, as well as a human head emerging from the mouth of a serpent.

Platform of Venus -- East of the Tzompantli and north of El Castillo, near the road to the Sacred Cenote, is the Platform of Venus. In Maya and Toltec lore, a feathered monster or a feathered serpent with a human head in its mouth represented Venus. This is also called the tomb of Chaac-Mool because a Chaac-Mool figure was discovered "buried" within the structure.

Sacred Cenote -- Follow the dirt road (actually an ancient sacbé, or causeway) that heads north from the Platform of Venus; after 5 minutes you'll come to the great natural well that may have given Chichén Itzá (the Well of the Itzáes) its name. This well was used for ceremonial purposes, not for drinking water -- according to legend, sacrificial victims were drowned in this pool to honor the rain god Chaac. Anatomical research done early in the 20th century by Ernest A. Hooten showed that bones of both children and adults were found in the well. Judging from Hooten's evidence, they may have been outcasts or diseased or feeble-minded persons.
Edward Thompson, who was the American consul in Mérida and a Harvard professor, purchased the ruins of Chichén early in the 20th century and explored the cenote with dredges and divers. His explorations exposed a fortune in gold and jade. Most of the riches wound up in Harvard's Peabody Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology -- a matter that continues to disconcert Mexican classicists today. Excavations in the 1960s unearthed more treasure, and studies of the recovered objects detail offerings from throughout the Yucatán and even farther away.

Templo de los Guerreros (Temple of the Warriors) -- Due east of El Castillo is one of the most impressive structures at Chichén: the Temple of the Warriors, named for the carvings of warriors marching along its walls. It's also called the Group of the Thousand Columns for the rows of broken pillars that flank it. During the recent restoration, hundreds more of the columns were rescued from the rubble and put in place, setting off the temple more magnificently than ever. A figure of Chaac-Mool sits at the top of the temple, surrounded by impressive columns carved in relief to look like enormous feathered serpents. South of the temple was a square building that archaeologists called El Mercado (The Market); a colonnade surrounds its central court. Beyond the temple and the market in the jungle are mounds of rubble, parts of which are being reconstructed.

The main Mérida-Cancún highway once ran straight through the ruins of Chichén, and though it has been diverted, you can still see the great swath it cut. South and west of the old highway's path are more impressive ruined buildings.

Tumba del Gran Sacerdote (Tomb of the High Priest) -- Past the refreshment stand to the right of the path is the Tomb of the High Priest, which stood atop a natural limestone cave in which skeletons and offerings were found, giving the temple its name.

Casa de los Metates (Temple of the Grinding Stones) -- This building, the next one on your right, is named after the concave corn-grinding stones the Maya used.

Templod del Venado (Temple of the Deer) -- Past Casa de los Metates is this fairly tall though ruined building. The relief of a stag that gave the temple its name is long gone.

Chichan-Chob (Little Holes) -- This next temple has a roof comb with little holes, three masks of the rain god Chaac, three rooms, and a good view of the surrounding structures. It's one of the oldest buildings at Chichén, built in the Puuc style during the late Classic period.

El Caracol (Observatory) -- Construction of the Observatory, a complex building with a circular tower, was carried out over centuries; the additions and modifications reflected the Maya's careful observation of celestial movements and their need for increasingly exact measurements. Through slits in the tower's walls, astronomers could observe the cardinal directions and the approach of the all-important spring and autumn equinoxes, as well as the summer solstice. The temple's name, which means "snail," comes from a spiral staircase within the structure.
On the east side of El Caracol, a path leads north into the bush to the Cenote Xtoloc, a natural limestone well that provided the city's daily water supply. If you see any lizards sunning there, they may well be xtoloc, the species for which this cenote is named.

Templo de los Tableros (Temple of Panels) -- Just south of El Caracol are the ruins of temazcalli (a steam bath) and the Temple of Panels, named for the carved panels on top. This temple was once covered by a much larger structure, only traces of which remain.

Edificio de las Monjas (Edifice of the Nuns) -- If you've visited the Puuc sites of Kabah, Sayil, Labná, or Xlapak, the enormous nunnery here will remind you of the palaces at those sites. Built in the Late Classic period, the new edifice was constructed over an older one. Suspecting that this was so, Le Plongeon, an archaeologist working early in the 20th century, put dynamite between the two and blew away part of the exterior, revealing the older structures within. You can still see the results of Le Plongeon's indelicate exploratory methods.

On the east side of the Edifice of the Nuns is Anexo Este (annex) constructed in highly ornate Chenes style with Chaac masks and serpents.

La Iglesia (The Church) -- Next to the annex is one of the oldest buildings at Chichén, the Church. Masks of Chaac decorate two upper stories. Look closely, and you'll see other pagan symbols among the crowd of Chaacs: an armadillo, a crab, a snail, and a tortoise. These represent the Maya gods, called bacah, whose job it was to hold up the sky.
Akab Dzib (Temple of Obscure Writing) -- Beloved of travel writers, this temple lies east of the Edifice of the Nuns. Above a door in one of the rooms are some Maya glyphs, which gave the temple its name because the writings have yet to be deciphered. In other rooms, traces of red handprints are still visible. Reconstructed and expanded over the centuries, Akab Dzib may be the oldest building at Chichén.

Chichen Viejo (Old Chichen) -- For a look at more of Chichén's oldest buildings, constructed well before the time of Toltec influence, follow signs from the Edifice of the Nuns southwest into the bush to Old Chichén, about 1km (1/2 mile) away. Be prepared for this trek with long trousers, insect repellent, and a local guide. The attractions here are the Templo de los Inscripciones Iniciales (Temple of the First Inscriptions), with the oldest inscriptions discovered at Chichén, and the restored Templo de los Dinteles (Temple of the Lintels), a fine Puuc building.

Chichen Itza -sacred city of the Itza- Chichen-Itza (chee-chehn eet-sah) in Maya, was a sacred city of the Itza and the name literally means: "Mouth of the well of the Itza". Located 75 miles east of Merida, the capital of the State of Yucatan, Mexico; this archaeological site is rated among the most important of the Maya culture and covers an area of approximately six square miles where hundreds of buildings once stood. Now most are mounds but more than thirty may still be seen by tourists. The two groupsThe ruins are divided into two groups. One group belongs to the classic Maya Period and was built between the 7th and 10th centuries A.D., at which time the city became a prominent ceremonial center. The other group corresponds to the Maya-Toltec Period, from the later part of the 10th century to the beginning of the 13th century A.D. This area includes the Sacred Well and most of the outstanding ruins.

Chichen-Itza was first settled it was largely agricultural. Because of the many cenotes in the area, it would have been a good place to settle. During the Central Phase of the Classic Period, referred to as Florescence, (625 -800 A.D.) arts and sciences flourished here. It was at this time that Chichen-Itza became a religious center of increasing importance, evidenced by the buildings erected: the Red House, the House of the Deer, the Nunnery and its Annex, the Church, the Akab Dzib, the Temple of the Three Lintels and the House of Phalli. Toward the end of the Classic Period, from 800 to 925 A.D., the foundations of this magnificent civilization weakened, and the Maya abandoned their religions centers and the rural land around them. New, smaller centers were built and the great cities like Chichen-Itza were visited only to perform religious rites or bury the dead. The Itza people abandoned their city by the end of the 7th century A.D. and lived on the west coast of the peninsula for about 250 years. However, by the 10th century A.D. they returned to Chichen-Itza. The allianceAround 1000 A.D. the Itza allied themselves with two powerful tribes, Xio and Cocom, both claiming to be descendants of the Mexicans. This alliance was favorable to the Itza for about two centuries. During this time, the people of Chichen-Itza added to the site by constructing magnificent buildings bearing the touch of Toltec art: porches, galleries, colonnades and carvings depicting serpents, birds and Mexican gods. Toltec influenceThe Toltec influenced the Itza in more ways than just architecture. They also imposed their religion on the Itza, which meant human sacrifice on a large scale. They expanded their dominions in northern Yucatan with an alliance with Mayapan and Uxmal. As the political base of Chichen-Itza expanded, the city added even more spectacular buildings: the Observatory, Kukulkan's Pyramid, the Temple of the Warriors, The Ball Court, and The Group of the Thousand Columns. The Temple of the Warriors has pillars sculptured in bas-relief, which have retained much of their original color. Murals once adorned its walls. It is surrounded by numerous ruined buildings known as the Group of a Thousand Columns. The Cenote of Sacrifice was reserved for rituals involving human sacrifice involving the rain God. The victims were not only young women, but also children and elderly men and women. Kukulkan's pyramidPossibly the best known construction on the site is Kukulkan's Pyramid. El Castillo (Kukulkan-Quetzalcoatl), a square-based, stepped pyramid that is approximately 75 feet tall. This pyramid was built for astronomical purposes and during the vernal equinox (March 20) and the autumnal equinox (September 21) at about 3pm the sunlight bathes the western balustrade of the pyramid's main stairway. This causes seven isosceles triangles to form imitating the body of a serpent 37 yards long that creeps downwards until it joins the huge serpent's head carved in stone at the bottom of the stairway. Mexican researcher Luis El Arochi calls it "the symbolic descent of Kukulkan" (the feathered serpent), and believes it could have been connected with agricultural rituals. The end- In 1194, Mayapan broke the alliance and subdued Chichen and Uxmal. The city was gradually abandoned

Tips & To Do

Insect repellant (I have plenty bird, don't buy any)
Yogurt days prior
Pesos or dollars fine
Check gas station pumps
Triple-Check Rental Car Before Leaving, Especially Tires, Spare, and Brakes
Camera
Sunscreen
DON'T FORGET SUNSCREEN
$100 in $1 bills
snorkels -- buy silicone for better fit
print websites
print all maps from frommers.com
print travelocity itineraries incl rental car
backpacks
hand sanitizers

Cancun

Shopping:el centro's avenida tulum, www.kukulcanplaza.com for bathing suits

Beach: Playa Delfines

Restaurant: Labna, calle margarita 29.
la habichuela -- calle margarita 25.

nightlife: ballet folklorico de cancun at the cancun convention center, or teatro de cancun at boulevard kukulcan

Better prices on avenida yaxchilan, particularly Mercado veinteocho (mkt 28) and plaza bonita next door

spas: ikal del mar, spa del mar, hotel el rey del caribe spa

Playa del Carmen: shopping, Avenida 5 for Blue Lobster

punta laguna for monkeys,

restaurant: los pelicanos puerto morelos

Akumal Stuff

Cyber Akumal Communications Center - Communication in Akumal
Internet DSL connnection. Phone, fax and copier services.
Location: Now with 2 locations: By the archway in central Akumal. Half Moon Bay next to Midway Food grocery.
Does not accept credit cards

Galeria Lamanai Caribbean Arts & Crafts - Gift Shop in Akumal
Great art by original artists, crafts, jewelry, carvings and more. www.lamanai.net
Location: On the beach on Akumal Bay, next to the beach bar.
Accepts credit cards Open 9 am to 9 pm, daily.

Ixchel Boutique - Gift Shop in Akumal
Tropical fashions, accessories and unexpected finds.
Location: Next to Turtle Bay Bakery

La Boutique - Gift Shop in Akumal
Cotton clothing, bed spreads, table cloths, place mats and more. Mexican handcrafts, jewelry and more.
Location: Between Peak Gym and Turtle Bay Bakery
Does not accept credit cards

Oshun - Gift Shop in Akumal
Handmade jewelry and beach wear, great selection of sarongs.
Location: Next to Super Las Palmas convenience store

More (Great Site!!)

Xaman-Ha Aviary

Xaman Ha Aviary: wonderful natural habitat for some 60 species of tropical birds who populate the jungles of the Yucatan peninsula. Roughly 200 individual birds living in harmony, within an open-air sanctuary that has paths and trails leading to the birds' preferred nesting areas. These birds live, eat, fly and reproduce within Xaman Ha's little Mexican jungle, and they intermingle with many of the non-winged species of Quintana Roo; like iguanas, butterflies, squirrels, and the turtles and fish found in the cenotes of the Riviera Maya and Yucatan.

WebSite

Must See Cenotes

Gran Cenote (Tulum)
Website
Location: South
Hours of Operation: 8am-5pm, daily
Description:
It's easy to see why this is one of the most popular cenotes in the Mayan Riviera. Just outside Tulum, this dive/snorkel spot is easily accessible and perfect for all skill levels. Snorkelers will appreciate the nearly perfect visibility, allowing visitors to get a firsthand glimpse at the abundance of small fish and plant life. Divers will be awed by the intricate underwater cave formations. Gran Cenote is a little piece of heaven for everyone visiting this Mayan Riviera oasis!

Dos Ojos Cenote (Tulum)
"Two Eyes" Cavern
Phone: +52 984 877 8535
Website
Location: South
Hours of Operation: 10am-5pm, daily
Dos Ojos, meaning "two eyes," has become a world famous dive spot for obvious reasons. Divers and snorkelers alike cannot wait to traverse this vast cavern, considered one of the longest, and most decorated, underwater cave systems in the world. Enter through one of the two separate pools, which look like two large eyes, and explore an intricate, and surprisingly clear, maze of caves and limestone formations. This spot has become even more renowned after being featured in the IMAX film, "Amazing Caves."

About 2km (1 mile) south of Xel-Ha is the Hidden Worlds Cenotes (tel. 984/877-8535; www.hiddenworlds.com.mx), which offers an excellent opportunity to snorkel or dive in a couple of nearby caverns. The caverns are part of a vast network that makes up a single underground river system. The water is crystalline (and a bit cold) and the rock formations impressive. These caverns were filmed for the IMAX production Journey into Amazing Caves. The people running the show are resourceful. The snorkel tour costs $40 and takes you to different caverns. The main form of transportation is "jungle mobile," with a guide who throws in tidbits of information and lore about the jungle plant life that you see. There is some walking involved, so take shoes or sandals. I've toured several caverns, but floating through one gave me an entirely different perspective.

Aktun Chen cavern (a bit beyond Akumal). Of the several caverns that I've toured in the Yucatán, this is one of the best -- lots of geological features, good lighting, several underground pools, and large chambers, all carefully preserved. The tour takes about an hour and requires a good amount of walking. The footing is good. You exit not far from where you enter. There is also a zoo with specimens of the local fauna. Some of the critters are allowed to run about freely. In my opinion, the cost of admission is high -- $17 for adults, $9 for children -- but this is true of several attractions on this coast. The cavern is open 9am to 5pm daily. The turnoff is to the right, and the cave is about 4km (2 1/2 miles) from the road. www.aktunchen.com.

Cenote Dzitnup in Valladolid

Tour Links

Jazz Festival (ends Nov. 25)http://www.rivieramayajazzfestival.com/en-index.htm st
starts at 8 pm Royal Porto Real.

www.ecotravelmexico.com


www.visitpuertomorelos.com

http://www.bestday.com/Riviera_Maya/Tours/

www.akumaldivecenter.com
www.akumaltravel.com
www.luckyfishdiving.com : tankah tres tour

www.trespalmasweb.com

www.rivieramaya.com

www.planeta.com/mexico.html

www.ecotravelmexico.com
www.mayasites.com
http://maya.ucr.edu/pril/el_eden/Home.html

www.mayayucatan.com
www.mexonline.com/yucatan.htm : PRINT THIS WHOLE SITE!

The Akumal Dive Shop (tel. 984/875-9032; http://www.akumal.com/), one of the oldest and best dive shops on the coast, offers courses in technical diving and cavern diving trips. It and Akumal Dive Adventures (tel. 984/875-9157), at the Vista del Mar hotel on Half Moon Bay, offer resort courses as well as complete certification. The operator of Akumal Dive Adventures is an American who is competent and personable. He took me to one of his favorite dive sites, where we had some close encounters with a couple of nursing sharks, a ray, and a turtle.

Cozumel

www.cozumelmycozumel.com

Dzul-Ha is a good place to snorkel from shore -- just south of the presidente intercontintental hotel. also on the other side of the hotel too.

Punta Molas Faro Nautical Site, Cozumel

The lighthouse, at Cozumel's northernmost point, is an excellent destination for exploring the island's wild side. The jagged shoreline and open sea offer magnificent views, making it well worth the cost of a guided tour. Even tour Jeeps and dune buggies may not be able to make it all the way to the lighthouse if storms have completely destroyed the road, but the scenery is still awesome. Most tours include stops at Maya sites and plenty of time for snorkeling at Hanan Reef about a 10-minute swim off the coast.
When booking a tour, ask about the size of the group. Some companies work with the cruise ships and lead large groups on limited schedules. If you're taking young children along you may want to think twice about booking a Jeep tour, as the bumps along the road could bounce the kids right out of the vehicle.

The enthusiastic guides at Aventuras Naturales (PHONE: 987/872-1628; 858/366-4632 in the U.S.; http://www.aventurasnaturalascozumel.com/) offer five-hour Jungle Jeep tours that include a stop at Castillo Real to explore the ruins, snorkeling, and then lunch on a beach strewn with seashells. Prices start at $85 per person. For $89, Dune Buggy Tours (PHONE: 987/872-0788) will take you on a wild buggy ride (you can drive yourself if you like), with stops at the ruins and reef and a lunch on the beach.

playa palancar
cozumel sailing and fury catamarans offer snorkeling tours
cozumelbikes.com

COZUMEL -- Playa del Carmen. Barcos México (tel. 987/872-1508 or 987/872-1588) and Ultramar (tel. 987/869-2775) offer departures almost every hour on the hour between 5am and midnight. The trip takes 30 to 45 minutes, depending on conditions, and costs $9 one-way. The boats are air-conditioned. In Playa del Carmen, the ferry dock is 1 1/2 blocks from the main square. In Cozumel, the ferries use Muelle Fiscal, the town pier, a block from the main square. Luggage storage at the Cozumel dock costs $2 per day.

The car ferry that used to operate from Puerto Morelos now uses the Calica pier just south of Playa del Carmen. The fare for a standard car is $80. Marítima Chancanaab (tel. 987/872-0916) has four departures daily from Calica at 7am, 1pm, 5pm, and 9pm. Arrive one hour before departure. The schedule is subject to change, so double-check it. The ferry docks in Cozumel at the Muelle Internacional (the International Pier, which is south of town near La Ceiba Hotel).

snorkeling trip to mayan reef: palancar reef, paraiso and chankanaab nat'l park

restaurant: chen rio, cabana del pescador

wildcatcozumel@hotmail.com). He speaks English, owns a couple of boats, and does a good 5-hour tour. He takes his time and doesn't rush through the trip. You can also try the Kuzamil Snorkeling Center, 50 Av. bis 565 Int. 1, between 5 Sur and Hidalgo, Colonia Adolfo López Mateos (tel. 987/872-4637 or 987/872-0539). A full-day snorkel trip costs $65 per person, $50 for children under 8. It includes the boat, the guide, a buffet lunch, and snorkel equipment, and it visits four reefs. Half-day trips are $40 adults, $30 children.

Chankanaab National Park: the snorkeling is best before noon. You can also swim with dolphins. Dolphin Discovery (tel. 998/849-4757 in Cancún; www.dolphindiscovery.com) has several programs for experiencing these sea creatures. You'll need to make reservations well in advance. The surest way is by e-mail (salesinternet@dolphindiscovery.com.mx) or through the website. The dolphin swim and other programs are very popular, so your best bet is to plan ahead. Still, if you're already in Cozumel, you can try by calling tel. 987/872-9702. The dolphin swim costs $125 and features close interaction with the beautiful swimmers. There's also a swim and snorkel program for $99 that gets you in the water with them but offers less interaction.

Dolphin Discovery also offers a program only in Cozumel where you can swim with sea lions ($59); make reservations for this. There is also a sea lion show, which doesn't require reservations. The show includes some scarlet macaws, which, like the sea lions, were rescued from illegal captivity. It costs $5 per adult, $3.50 per child. Tickets are available through any travel agency in town (and remember that you also have to pay for admission to the park).

Surrounding the land-locked pool is a botanical garden with shady paths and 351 species of tropical and subtropical plants from 22 countries, as well as 451 species from Cozumel. Several Maya structures have been re-created within the gardens to give visitors an idea of Maya life in a jungle setting. There's a small natural history museum as well. Admission to the park costs $10; it's open daily from 8am to 5pm. The park is south of town, just past the Fiesta Americana Hotel. Taxis run constantly between the park, the hotels, and town ($9 from town for up to four people).

Punta Sur Ecological Reserve (admission $10) is a large area that encompasses the southern tip of the island, including the Columbia Lagoon. The only practical way of going there is to rent a car or scooter; there is no taxi stand, and, usually, few people. This is an ecological reserve, not a park, so don't expect much infrastructure. The reserve has an information center, several observation towers, and a snack bar. In addition, there are four boat rides per day around the Colombia Lagoon, where guides point out things of interest about the habitat (bring bug spray). Punta Sur has some interesting snorkeling (bring your own gear), and lovely beaches kept as natural as possible. Regular hours are from 9am to 5pm. A special program (tel. 987/872-2940 for info) allows visitors to observe turtle nests in season, and you can participate as a volunteer in the evenings during the nesting season.

La Choza: Local residents consider this one of the best Mexican restaurants in town. Platters of poblano chiles stuffed with shrimp, arrachera (skirt steak), and pollo en relleno negro (chicken in a sauce of blackened chiles) are among the specialties. The table sauces and guacamole are great, and the daily specials can be good, too. This is an open-air restaurant with well-spaced tables under a tall thatched roof. Avenida Rafael Melgar 27, San Miguel.

Comida COsera COnita: The owners have made the living room of their home into a comfortable dining room, complete with filled bookshelves and classical music playing in the background. Whole fried fish, fish filet, and fried chicken are on the regular menu. Daily specials give you a chance to taste authentic regional food, including pollo a la naranja (chicken in bitter-orange sauce), chicken mole (in a vinegar-based sauce), pollo en escabeche (chicken stewed in a lightly pickled sauce), and pork chops with achiote seasoning.

Beaches

2 miles beyond Puerto Aventuras is Xpu-Ha (eesh-poo-hah), a wide bay lined by a broad, beautiful sandy beach, perhaps the best beach on the entire coast. All-inclusive resorts sit at each end of the bay (Xpu-Ha Palace and Robinson Club) and in the middle (Hotel Copacabana). The beach is big enough to accommodate the hotel crowds (who usually stay on the beach in front of their lodgings) as well as the people trucked in on weekdays from the cruise ships that dock at Calica. The cruise-ship vans usually pull in to the beach entrance called La Playa, on the far side (south) of the Copacabana, which means that you'll want to take one of the entrances before the hotel.

Puerto Moreles

Chunzubul, Playa del Carmen -- nudist!

Playa Delfines, Cancun

MORE BEACHES

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling

Punta Nizuc is the northern tip of the Gran Arrecife Maya (Great Mesoamerican Reef), the largest reef in the Western Hemisphere and one of the largest in the world.

brecko's, diving dog tours, original snorkeling adventure

Puerto Morelos: 23 miles south of Cancún, the reef hugs the coastline for 9 miles. The reef is so close to the shore that it forms a natural barrier for the village and keeps the waters calm on the inside of the reef. The water here is shallow, from 1.5 to 9m (5-30 ft.), resulting in ideal conditions for snorkeling. Stringent environmental regulations implemented by the local community have kept the reef here unspoiled. Only a select few companies are allowed to offer snorkel trips, and they must adhere to guidelines that will ensure the reef's preservation.

Jungle Tour: Four Wheeling (WHEE)

Cancún Mermaid (tel. 998/843-6517 or 998/886-4117; www.cancunmermaid.com), in Cancún, offers all-terrain-vehicle (ATV) jungle tours for $49 per person. The ATV tours travel through the jungles of Cancún and emerge on the beaches of the Riviera Maya.

The 2 1/2-hour tour includes equipment, instruction, the services of a tour guide, and bottled water; it departs daily at 8am and 1:30pm. The company picks you up at your hotel. Another ATV option is Rancho Loma Bonita.

Swimming With The Dolphins

• On Isla Mujeres, you have the opportunity to swim with dolphins at Dolphin Discovery (tel. 998/849-4757; www.dolphindiscovery.com). There are several options for dolphin interaction, but my choice is the Royal Swim, which includes an educational introduction followed by 30 minutes of swim time. The price is $125 (MasterCard and Visa are accepted), with transportation to Isla Mujeres an additional $5 for program participants. Advance reservations are required. Assigned swimming times are 10am, noon, 2, or 3:30pm, and you must arrive 1 1/2 hour before your scheduled swim time.

• In Cancún, the Parque Nizuc (tel. 998/881-3030) marine park offers guests a chance to swim with dolphins and view them in their dolphin aquarium, Atlántida. The price of the dolphin swim ($135) includes admission to the park. It's a fun place for a family to spend the day, with its numerous pools, waterslides, and rides.
  
  Visitors can also snorkel with manta rays, tropical fish, and tame sharks. It's at the southern end of Cancún, between the airport and the Hotel Zone. Admission is $27 for adults, $23 for children 3 to 11 (American Express, MasterCard, and Visa are accepted).
  
  Open daily from 10am to 5:30pm.

Isla Mujeres

BUY TICKETS ON FERRY FOR CHEAPER RATES. Isla Mujeres: Playa Norte (chairs and hammocks free in front of Sergios, Tarzan Water Sports), rent a moped and hit one of the beach clubs on the southeastern coast, stopping at the Tortugranja turtle farm. The longer trip is recommended. Buy ticket on board the boat.

Bluewateradventures.com.mx,
kolumbustours.com,
twomuchfun-n-aboat.com.
Isla-mujeras.com.mx.
www.garrafon.com.

Sunset Grill Mexican, $5 to $25, Isla Mujeres
The perfect place for a sunset dinner, this spot has beachside tables where you can sip cocktails and a covered dining terrace where large picture windows overlook the sea. The evening menu has a wide range of Mexican and Italian-American dishes, including coconut shrimp, fresh pasta, and fried snapper; soft music and candlelight add to the romantic ambience. There's also a lunch menu with Mexican favorites like tacos and quesadillas, and an excellent breakfast buffet. MC, V. Address: Av. Rueda Medina, North End, Condominios Nautibeach, Playa Norte, Isla Mujeres, Quintana Roo, MexicoPhone: 998/877-0785


Picus Cocktelería Seafood, $5 to $25, Isla Mujeres
Kick off your shoes and settle back with a cold beer at this charming beachside restaurant right near the ferry docks. You can watch the fishing boats come and go while you wait for some of the freshest seafood on the island. The grilled fish and grilled lobster with garlic butter are both magnificent here, as are the shrimp fajitas -- but the real showstopper is the mixed seafood ceviche, which might include conch, shrimp, abalone, fish, or octopus. No credit cards. Address: Av. Rueda Medina, 1 block northwest of ferry docks, Isla Mujeres, Quintana Roo, Mexico

www.mjmnet.net/seahawkdivers/home.htm

www.isla-mujeres.net/islenatours/index.htm

Isla Contoy for snorkeling www.islacontoy.org. caribbeanrealtytravel.com, isla-mujeres.net/islenatours/index.htm.
playa los cocos: beautiful bach.

The island of Isla Mujeres, just 13km (8 miles) offshore, is one of the most pleasant day trips from Cancún. At one end is El Garrafón Natural Park, which is excellent for snorkeling. At the other end is a captivating village with small shops, restaurants, and hotels, and Playa Norte, the island's best beach. If you're looking for relaxation and can spare the time, it's worth several days.

There are four ways to get there: public ferry from Puerto Juárez, which takes between 15 and 45 minutes; shuttle boat from Playa Linda or Playa Tortuga -- an hour-long ride, with irregular service; Watertaxi (more expensive, but faster), next to the Xcaret Terminal; and daylong pleasure-boat trips, most of which leave from the Playa Linda pier.

The inexpensive Puerto Juárez public ferries are just a few kilometers from downtown Cancún.

From Cancún City, take the Ruta 8 bus on Avenida Tulum to Puerto Juárez. The air-conditioned Caribbean Express (20 min.) costs $4 per person. Departures are every half-hour from 6 to 8:30am and then every 15 minutes until 8:30pm. The slower Caribbean Savage (45-60 min.) is a bargain at about $2.

It departs every 2 hours, or less frequently depending on demand. Upon arrival, the ferry docks in downtown Isla Mujeres near all the shops, restaurants, hotels, and Norte beach.

You'll need a taxi to get to El Garrafón park, at the other end of the island. You can stay as long as you like on the island (even overnight) and return by ferry, but be sure to double-check the time of the last returning ferry.

playa lancheros restaurant at isla mujeres

isla mujeres: playa norte, rent moped, tortugranja turtle farm,

El Garrafón Natural Park is under the same management as Xcaret (tel. 998/884-9422;). The basic entrance fee of $29 includes access to the reef and a museum, as well as use of kayaks, inner tubes, life vests, the pool, hammocks, and public facilities and showers. Snorkel gear and lockers can be rented for an extra charge. There are also nature trails as well as several restaurants on-site. www.garrafon.com

An all-inclusive option is available for $59, which includes dining on whatever you choose at any of the restaurants, plus unlimited domestic drinks and use of snorkel gear, locker, and towel. El Garrafón also has full dive facilities and gear rentals, plus an expansive gift shop.

www.isla-mujeres.net
www.myislamujeres.com
www.islamujeres.net



Despite participation in the much publicized "Garrafón Reef Restoration Program," much of the coral reef at this national marine park remains dead (the result of hurricane damage, as well as damage from boats and too many careless tourists). There are still some colorful fish to be seen here, but many of them will only come near if bribed with food. Although there's no longer much for snorkelers here, the park does have kayaks and ocean playground equipment (such as platforms to dive from), as well as a three-floor facility with restaurants, bathrooms, and gift shops. Be prepared to spend big money here; the basic entry fee doesn't include snorkel gear, lockers, or food, all of which are pricey. (The Beach Club Garrafón de Castilla next door is a much cheaper alternative; the snorkeling is at least equal to that available in the park. The club is open to everyone and the entrance fee is $2. You can take a taxi from town.)
The park also has the Santuario Maya a la Diosa Ixchel, the sad vestiges of a Maya temple once dedicated to the goddess Ixchel. Unsuccessful attempts to restore it were made after Hurricane Gilbert greatly damaged the site in 1988. A lovely walkway around the area remains, but the natural arch beneath the ruin has been blasted open and "repaired" with concrete badly disguised as rocks. The views here are spectacular, though: you can look to the open ocean on one side and the Bahía de Mujeres (Bay of Women) on the other. On the way to the temple there is a cutesy re-creation of a Caribbean village selling overpriced jewelry and souvenirs. Just before you reach the ruins you will pass the sculpture park with its abstract blobs of iron painted in garish colors. Inside the village is an old lighthouse, which you can enter for free. Climb to the top for an incredible view to the south; the vista in the other direction is marred by a tower from a defunct amusement ride (Ixchel would not be pleased). The ruin, which is open daily 9 to 5:30, is at the point where the road turns northeast into the Corredor Panorámico. To visit just the ruins and sculpture park the admission is $3. Admission to the village is free. http://www.garrafon.com/. COST: Basic entrance fee: $16. Tours from Cancun: $29-$59. Tours from Isla: $44. OPEN: Daily 8:30 AM-6:30 PM.

Puerto Juárez (tel. 998/877-0618), just north of Cancún, is the dock for passenger ferries to Isla Mujeres, the least expensive way to travel to Isla. The air-conditioned Caribbean Express leaves every half-hour, makes the trip in 20 minutes, has storage space for luggage, and costs about $4. These boats operate daily, starting at 6:30am and ending at 8:30pm. They might leave early if they're full, so arrive ahead of schedule. Pay at the ticket office -- or, if the ferry is about to leave, aboard.

The City Tourist Office (tel./fax 998/877-0767 or 998/877-0307) is at Av. Rueda Medina 130, on your left as you reach the end of the pier. It's open Monday through Friday from 8am to 8pm, Saturday from 8am to 2pm. Also look for Islander, a free publication with local information, advertisements, and event listings.

A popular form of transportation on Isla Mujeres is the electric golf cart, available for rent at many hotels for $15 per hour or $45 per day. El Sol Golf Cart Rental, Av. Francisco I. Madero 5 (tel. 998/877-0791 or 998/877-0068), will deliver, or you can pick one up. The golf carts don't go more than 32kmph (20 mph), but they're fun. Anyway, you aren't on Isla Mujeres to hurry. Many people enjoy touring the island by moto (motorized bike or scooter). Fully automatic versions are available for around $25 per day or $7 per hour. They come with seats for one person, but some are large enough for two. There's only one main road with a couple of offshoots, so you won't get lost. Be aware that the rental price does not include insurance, and any injury to yourself or the vehicle will come out of your pocket. Bicycles are also available for rent at some hotels for $3 per hour or $7 per day, including a basket and a lock.

If you prefer to use a taxi, rates are about $2.50 for trips within the downtown area, or $4.50 for a trip to the southern end of Isla. You can also hire them for about $10 per hour. The number to call for taxis is tel. 998/877-0066.

Dolphin Discovery -- You can swim with live dolphins (tel. 998/877-0207, or 998/849-4757 in Cancún; fax 998/849-4751; www.dolphindiscovery.com) in an enclosure at Treasure Island, on the side of Isla Mujeres that faces Cancún. Groups of six people swim with two dolphins and one trainer. Swimmers view an educational video and spend time in the water with the trainer and the dolphins before enjoying 15 minutes of free swimming time with them. Reservations are recommended, and you must arrive an hour before your assigned swimming time, at 9am, 11am, 1pm, or 3pm. The cost is $125 per person, plus $10 if you need round-trip transportation from Cancún.

A Turtle Sanctuary -- As recently as 20 years ago, fishermen converged on the island nightly from May to September, waiting for the monster-size turtles to lumber ashore to deposit their Ping-Pong-ball-shaped eggs. Totally vulnerable once they begin laying their eggs, and exhausted when they have finished, the turtles were easily captured and slaughtered for their highly prized meat, shell, and eggs. Then a concerned fisherman, Gonzalez Cahle Maldonado, began convincing others to spare at least the eggs, which he protected. It was a start. Following his lead, the fishing secretariat founded the Centro de Investigaciones 11 years ago; although the local government provided assistance in the past, now the center relies solely on private donations. Since opening, at least 28,000 turtles have been released, and every year local schoolchildren participate in the event, thus planting the notion of protecting the turtles for a new generation of islanders.

Six species of sea turtles nest on Isla Mujeres. An adult green turtle, the most abundant species, measures 1 to 1.5m (4-5 ft.) in length and can weigh as much as 450 pounds. At the center, visitors walk through the indoor and outdoor turtle pool areas, where the creatures paddle around. The turtles are separated by age, from newly hatched up to 1 year. People who come here usually end up staying at least an hour, especially if they opt for the guided tour, which I recommend. They also have a small gift shop and snack bar. The sanctuary is on a piece of land separated from the island by Bahía de Mujeres and Laguna Makax, at Carr. Sac Bajo #5; you'll need a taxi to get there. Admission is $3; the shelter is open daily from 9am to 5pm. For more information, call tel. 998/877-0595.

Sights of Punta Sur -- Also at Punta Sur (the southern point of the island, just inland from Garrafón National Park (tel. 998/877-1100; www.garrafon.com) and part of the Park, is Isla's newest attraction, the Panoramic Tower. At 50m (225 ft.) high, the tower offers visitors a birds' eye view of the entire island. The tower holds 20 visitors at a time, and rotates for ten minutes while you can snap photos or simply enjoy the scenery. Entry fee is $5, a professional photo of you at the tower (touch-ups are included!) is $10, and package prices are available.
Next to the tower you'll find Sculptured Spaces, an impressive and extensive garden of large sculptures donated to Isla Mujeres by internationally renowned sculptors as part of the 2001 First International Sculpture Exhibition. Among Mexican sculptors represented are works by Jose Luis Cuevas and Vlaadimir Cora.

check out the temple on the southernmost tip just past the old lighthouse. highest point in the yucatan region.

arts & crafts show sunday afternoon -- mercado de artesanias on avenida matamoras

Nearby is the Caribbean Village, with narrow lanes of colorful clapboard buildings that house cafes and shops displaying folkloric art. Plan to have lunch or a snack here at the kiosk and stroll around, before heading on to the lighthouse and Mayan ruins.
Also at this southern point of the island, and part of the ruins is Cliff of the Dawn, the southeastern-most point of Mexico. Services are available from 7am to 8pm, but you can enter at any time; if you make it there early enough to see the sun rise, you can claim you were the first person in Mexico that day to be touched by the sun!
A Maya Ruin-- Just beyond the lighthouse, at the southern end of the island, are the strikingly beautiful remains of a small Maya temple, believed to have been built to pay homage to the moon and fertility goddess Ixchel. The location, on a lofty bluff overlooking the sea, is worth seeing and makes a great place for photos. It is believed that Maya women traveled here on annual pilgrimages to seek Ixchel's blessings of fertility. If you're at El Garrafón park and want to walk, it's not too far. Turn right from El Garrafón. When you see the lighthouse, turn toward it down the rocky path.
A Pirate's Fortress -- The Fortress of Mundaca is about 4km (2 1/2 miles) in the same direction as El Garrafón, less than a kilometer (about 1/2 mile) to the left. A slave trader who claimed to have been the pirate Mundaca Marecheaga built the fortress. In the early 19th century, he arrived at Isla Mujeres and set up a blissful paradise, while making money selling slaves to Cuba and Belize. According to island lore, he decided to settle down and build this hacienda after being captivated by the charms of an island girl. However, she reputedly spurned his affections and married another islander, leaving him heartbroken and alone on Isla Mujeres. Admission is $2; the fortress is open daily from 10am to 6pm.
A Visit to Isla Contoy-- If possible, plan to visit this pristine uninhabited island, 30km (20 miles) by boat from Isla Mujeres, that became a national wildlife reserve in 1981. Lush vegetation covers the oddly shaped island, which is 6km (3 3/4 miles) long and harbors 70 species of birds as well as a host of marine and animal life. Bird species that nest on the island include pelicans, brown boobies, frigates, egrets, terns, and cormorants. Flocks of flamingos arrive in April. June, July, and August are good months to spot turtles burying their eggs in the sand at night. Most excursions troll for fish (which will be your lunch), anchor en route for a snorkeling expedition, skirt the island at a leisurely pace for close viewing of the birds without disturbing the habitat, and then pull ashore. While the captain prepares lunch, visitors can swim, sun, follow the nature trails, and visit the fine nature museum, which has bathroom facilities. The trip from Isla Mujeres takes about 45 minutes each way and can be longer if the waves are choppy. Because of the tight-knit boatmen's cooperative, prices for this excursion are the same everywhere: $40. You can buy a ticket at the Sociedad Cooperativa Turística on Avenida Rueda Medina, next to Mexico Divers and Las Brisas restaurant (no phone), or at one of several travel agencies, such as
La Isleña, on Morelos between Medina and Juárez (tel. 998/877-0578). La Isleña is open daily from 7:30am to 9:30pm and is a good source for tourist information. Isla Contoy trips leave at 8:30am and return around 4pm. The price (cash only) is $37 for adults, $18 for children. Boat captains should respect the cooperative's regulations regarding ecological sensitivity, and boat safety, including the availability of life jackets for everyone on board. Snorkeling equipment is usually included in the price, but double-check that before heading out. On the island, there is a small government museum with bathroom facilities.



The Beaches -- The most popular beach in town is alternately referred to as Playa Cocoteros ("Cocos," for short), or Playa Norte. The long stretch of beach extends around the northern tip of the island, to your left as you get off the boat. This is a truly splendid beach -- a wide stretch of fine white sand and calm, translucent, turquoise-blue water. Topless sunbathing is permitted. The beach is easily reached on foot from the ferry and from all downtown hotels. Watersports equipment, beach umbrellas, and lounge chairs are available for rent. Those in front of restaurants usually cost nothing if you use the restaurant as your headquarters for drinks and food.
El Garrafón Natural Park is best known as a snorkeling area, but there is a nice stretch of beach on either side of the park. Playa Lancheros is on the Caribbean side of Laguna Makax. Local buses go to Lancheros, then turn inland and return downtown. The beach at Playa Lancheros is nice, but the few restaurants there are expensive.


By far the most popular place to snorkel is El Garrafón Natural Park. It is at the southern end of the island, where you'll see numerous schools of colorful fish. The well-equipped park has two restaurant-bars, beach chairs, a swimming pool, kayaks, changing rooms, rental lockers, showers, a gift shop, and snack bars. Once a public national underwater park, Garrafón, since late 1999, has been operated by the same people who manage Xcaret, south of Cancún. Public facilities have been vastly improved, with new attractions and facilities added each year. Activities at the park include snorkeling and "Snuba" (a tankless version of scuba diving, when you descend while breathing through a long air tube), crystal-clear canoes for viewing underwater life, and a zip-line that takes you over the water. The underwater minisub Sea Trek provides a great view of the submarine landscape, and you can keep dry, if that's your preference. On land, they have tanning decks, shaded hammocks, a 12m (40-ft.) climbing tower, and -- of course! -- a souvenir superstore. Several restaurants and snack bars are available. Admission is $29 for adults, $15 for children (American Express, MasterCard, and Visa are accepted). You can also choose a package ($59) that includes food, beverages, locker rental, and snorkeling gear rental. Day-trip packages from Cancún (tel. 998/884-9422 or 984/875-6000) are also available. Prices start at $22 and include round-trip transportation from the pier on Km 4 outside Cancún. The park is open daily from 9am to 5pm.
Also good for snorkeling is the Manchones Reef, off the southeastern coast. The reef is just offshore and accessible by boat.
Another excellent location is around el faro (the lighthouse) in the Bahía de Mujeres at the southern tip of the island, where the water is about 2m (6 ft.) deep. Boatmen will take you for around $25 per person if you have your own snorkeling equipment or $30 if you use theirs.

La Palapa Chimbo's: If you're looking for a beachside palapa-covered restaurant where you can wiggle your toes in the sand while relishing fresh seafood, this is the best of them. It's the locals' favorite on Playa Norte. Try the delicious fried whole fish, which comes with rice, beans, and tortillas. You'll notice a bandstand and dance floor in the middle of the restaurant, and sex-hunk posters all over the ceiling -- that is, when you aren't gazing at the beach and the Caribbean. Chimbo's becomes a lively bar and dance club at night, drawing a crowd of drinkers and dancers

Pinguino: The best seats on the waterfront are on the deck of this restaurant and bar, especially in late evening, when islanders and tourists arrive to dance and party. This is the place to feast on sublimely fresh lobster -- you'll get a large, beautifully presented lobster tail with a choice of butter, garlic, and secret sauces. The grilled seafood platter is spectacular, and fajitas and barbecued ribs are also popular. Breakfasts include fresh fruit, yogurt, and granola, or sizable platters of eggs, served with homemade wheat bread. Pinguino also has nonsmoking areas.


Playa Lancheros Restaurant Mexican, $5 to $25, Isla Mujeres


One of Isla's best and most authentic restaurants, this eatery is worth taking a short taxi ride for. It's located right on the beach (the fish doesn't come any fresher than this), and its menu fuses traditional Mexican and regional cuisine. The house speciality is the Yucatecan tikinchic (fish marinated in a sour-orange sauce and chili paste then cooked in a banana leaf over an open flame) -- and there are also delicious tacos and grilled fish, fresh guacamole, and salsa. The food may take a while to arrive, so bring your swimsuit, order a beer, and take a dip while you wait. On Sundays there is music, dancing, and the occasional shark wrestler. MC, V. Address: Playa Lancheros where Avenida Rueda Medina splits into Sac Bajo and Carretera El Garrafón, Isla Mujeres, Quintana Roo, Mexico

Xel-ha

The ecopark at Xel-Ha (tel. 998/884-9422; www.xelha.com.mx, 13km (8 miles) south of Akumal, attracts throngs of snorkelers and divers with its warm waters and brilliant fish. The beautiful, calm cove is a perfect place to bring kids for their first snorkeling experience.

Xel-ha (shell-hah) also offers dolphin swims and has food and beverage service, changing rooms, showers, and other facilities.

Just south of the Xel-Ha turnoff on the west side of Highway 307, don't miss the ruins of ancient Xel-Ha. You'll likely be the only one there as you walk over limestone rocks and through the tangle of trees, vines, and palms. There is a huge, deep, dark cenote to one side, a temple palace with tumbled-down columns, stone statues of jaguars, and a conserved temple group. A covered palapa on one pyramid guards a partially preserved mural. Admission is $3.50.

Xel-Ha is close to Tulum and makes a good place for a dip when you've finished climbing those Maya ruins. You can even make the 13km (8-mile) hop north from Tulum to Xel-Ha by public bus. When you get off at the junction for Tulum, ask the restaurant owner when the next buses come by; otherwise, you may have to wait as long as 2 hours on the highway

The centerpiece of Xel-Ha (shell-hah) is a large, beautiful lagoon where freshwater and saltwater meet. You can swim, float, and snorkel in beautifully clear water surrounded by jungle. A small train takes guests upriver to a drop-off point. There, you can store all your clothes and gear in a locked sack that is taken down to the locker rooms in the main part of the building. The water moves calmly toward the sea, and you can float along with it. Snorkeling here offers a higher comfort level than the open sea -- there are no waves and currents to pull you about, but there are a lot of fish of several species, including rays.

Inside the park, you can rent snorkeling equipment and an underwater camera. Platforms allow nonsnorkelers to view the fish. Another way to view fish is to use the park's "snuba" gear -- a contraption that allows you to breathe air through 6m (20-ft.) tubes connected to scuba tanks floating on the surface. It frees you of the cumbersome tank while allowing you to stay down without having to hold your breath. Rental costs $42 for approximately an hour. Like snuba but more involved is "sea-trek," a device consisting of an elaborate plastic helmet with air hoses. It allows you to walk around on the bottom breathing normally and perhaps participate in feeding the park's stingrays.

Another attraction is swimming with dolphins. A 1-hour swim costs $115; a 15-minute program costs $40. Make reservations (tel. 998/887-6840) at least 24 hours in advance for one of the four daily sessions.

Other attractions include a plant nursery, an apiary for the local, stingless Maya bees, and a lovely path through the tropical forest bordering the lagoon.

Xel-Ha is open daily from 8:30am to 5pm. Parking is free. For the basic package, adult admission is $36 on weekdays, $28 on weekends; admission for children ages 5 to 11 is $18 on weekdays, $13 on weekends; children under 5 enter free. Admission includes use of inner tubes, life vest, and shuttle train to the river, and the use of changing rooms and showers. An all-inclusive option includes snorkeling equipment rental, locker rental, towels, food, and beverages. Adults can visit all week long for $67, and children visit for $33. The park has five restaurants, two ice cream shops, and a store. It accepts American Express, MasterCard, and Visa, and has an ATM.
Signs clearly mark the turnoff to Xel-Ha. Xel-Ha is close to the ruins of Tulum. A popular day tour from Cancún or Playa combines the two. If you're traveling on your own, the best time to enjoy Xel-Ha without the crowds is during the weekend from 9am to 2 pm.